Lab Notes
LAB NOTES
A monthly record from the OUMERE Laboratory Notebook — observations from the ongoing study of the biology of beauty.
December 2025 - Grapeseed Extract Source Evaluation – Organic Vitis vinifera (Germany)
Objective
To evaluate the biochemical, visual, and functional characteristics of the newly sourced Vitis vinifera (grapeseed) powder produced from organic press cake following cold-pressed oil extraction in Germany. The new material replaces the prior extract (2019–2024), previously sourced from France.
Observations
Initial Material:
Fine, pale rose-toned powder with a lighter particle density and lower oxidation odor. Upon hydration, suspension forms within 2–3 minutes versus 30 seconds previously, indicating coarser granularity and slower saturation.
Fermentation Window:
Extended from 24h → 48h at ambient 24°C to achieve full emulsification with aqueous phase. Resulting supernatant is translucent rose-gold, pH 4.5.
Visual Shift:
The prior formulation exhibited a deep maroon tone, indicative of anthocyanin polymerization and partial oxidation. The new extract maintains a stable rose-gold hue, reflective of reduced polyphenolic oxidation and improved antioxidant integrity.
Functional Analysis
1. Exfoliation Profile:
Equivalent resurfacing efficacy (as measured by controlled keratinocyte desquamation assay), with noticeably reduced transient erythema. Subjective feel: softer glide, smoother dissipation, improved post-application comfort.
2. Barrier Compatibility:
TEWL (transepidermal water loss) unchanged after 7-day patch use. Indirect evidence of maintained acid–lipid equilibrium.
3. pH Stability:
Stable across 90-day accelerated storage (40°C, 75% RH). ΔpH < 0.05.
Visual hue remains constant — no return to maroon oxidation profile observed.
Conclusion
The transition to organic German Vitis vinifera yields a purer, more stable botanical extract that enhances the sensory profile of No. 9 without altering its exfoliation kinetics. The shift from maroon to rose-gold is both aesthetic and biochemical — a visible marker of cleaner polyphenolic composition and reduced oxidative load.
Researcher’s Note
The more I purify, the more nature reveals its restraint. The rose-gold hue feels like the color of equilibrium — exfoliation without aggression, beauty without artifice.
November 2025 — Refinement by Concentration
Observation:
This month’s edition brought two distinct evolutions: the Eye Serum became lighter and silkier in texture, while The Advancement II developed a subtle thermal response upon application.
Hypothesis:
The refinement of raw materials alters not just texture, but biological performance. The Eye Serum’s new Brazilian Pfaffia paniculata (Suma) extract — organic, high-purity, and micro-filtered — reduced residual particulate matter, yielding a serum that feels weightless yet penetrates more efficiently. For The Advancement II, increasing peptide load while reducing botanical extracts may heighten dermal signaling and resilience through localized vasodilation, observed as a gentle warmth.
Experiment:
Two adjustments were performed:
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Eye Serum — Sourced a new Brazilian Suma root extract at 99.4% purity. Compared diffusion rate and sensory profile to prior extract.
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The Advancement II — Increased peptide phase by 7% and reduced wasabi and broccoli sprout extracts by equal proportion.
Results:
Eye Serum spread thinner, absorbed faster, and maintained the same antioxidant stability curve while producing a brighter finish on application. The Advancement II generated transient warmth (approx. 20–30 seconds), correlating with greater post-use firmness and visible resilience over two weeks of observation.
Reflection:
Progress in formulation is not always addition — sometimes it is refinement. The lighter touch of Suma and the denser pulse of peptides reveal a shared principle: precision through concentration.
October 2025 — The Gold Shift in Serum Bioluminelle
Observation: This month’s batch of Serum Bioluminelle developed a soft gold undertone, more luminous than before. Under lab light, the microemulsion refracts with higher transparency — possibly due to a slight variation in the new batch of green coffee oil.
Hypothesis: Trace phenolic variation from the extraction may have reduced particulate scattering, altering optical clarity.
Experiment: Two microbatches were produced — with and without the modified extract. After 72 hours, viscosity remained stable; the refractive index increased by 0.3 units in the modified version.
Results: Radiance improved without additional surfactant or oil buildup. The natural gold refraction persisted under sunlight.
Reflection: A living formula evolves with its environment. Precision is not control — it is awareness.
September 2025 — Microflora Drift in UV-R
Observation: A faint opalescence developed in UV-R stored at ambient humidity (62–66%). Particle dispersion appeared more uniform; tactile glide increased without extra emollient.
Hypothesis: Natural variance in phenolic content from the latest green tea fraction altered microemulsion behavior, reducing scatter and subtly changing refractive index.
Experiment: Three microbatches tested: control, +0.02% phenolic-rich fraction, –0.02% fraction. Measurements included refractive index, viscosity, and 24-hour stability.
Results: The enriched batch showed increased radiance and smoother occlusive feel with no phase separation.
Reflection: The skin prefers coherence over force. Small molecular shifts often bring the greatest harmony.
— OUMERE Laboratory, Palm Beach —