A Formula Correction: Why We Removed Hyaluronic Acid from Serum Bioluminelle
- Early Bioluminelle contained HA to echo the skin’s ECM. Lab observations changed that view.
- Topical, free HA can behave differently than HA integrated within the ECM network.
- OUMERE’s hydration strategy: stimulate your own HA production, calm inflammation, deliver water and lipids, then seal intelligently.
- Result: durable hydration without dependency or barrier stress.
A formula correction. When Serum Bioluminelle first launched, it mirrored key extracellular matrix (ECM) elements—including elastin and hyaluronic acid (HA). Two years ago, we removed HA from Bioluminelle (and from all future OUMERE formulas) after in-lab observations and formulation review suggested that free, formula-added HA can behave unlike HA naturally woven into the ECM.
Original announcement: Why we took HA out →
Natural HA in skin vs. HA in a bottle
In the ECM: HA is bound within a regulated matrix (with proteoglycans and proteins). It helps resist compression, coordinate hydration, and support homeostasis.
In topical formulas: HA is free in solution. Depending on concentration, molecular weight distribution, environmental humidity, and the surrounding lipids, HA can strongly bind water from its immediate environment. In the lab, a 1.5–2% HA solution rapidly formed a dense gel—evidence of aggressive water binding under those conditions.
Why we removed HA from Bioluminelle
- Context mismatch: Free HA in formulas ≠ HA integrated into the ECM. We prioritize actives that support the skin’s own biology rather than simulate it imperfectly.
- Hydration behavior: Under some conditions, free HA may preferentially bind surface water, which can feel drying on certain skin types or climates when not balanced with appropriate lipids and humidity.
- Cleaner path forward: OUMERE can build more reliable hydration by stimulating your own HA, calming inflammation, and optimizing lipid-water balance.
Creating true skin hydration (the OUMERE path)
- Stimulate endogenous HA production with controlled daily chemical exfoliation (PHA) to encourage orderly turnover — No.9.
- Reduce inflammation & cellular stress to preserve HA and collagen — UV-R and rigorous sun habits.
- Deliver water and lipids together for balanced hydration — Serum Bioluminelle.
- Intelligent occlusion (when appropriate) to lock hydration in place — final thin layer of lipids; in select cases, petrolatum as an inert seal.
Why a seal matters: Step 4 is critical. Hydration gains dissipate without a barrier. Bioluminelle includes both water-phase and oil-phase components to hydrate and reduce TEWL.
About petrolatum (petroleum jelly)
- Biologically inert occlusion: Cosmetic-grade petrolatum forms an effective barrier film and is widely used in dermatology to reduce TEWL.
- Size matters: Its high molecular weight film remains mostly on the surface, functioning as a seal rather than a penetrant.
- Purity note: Reputable suppliers refine to cosmetic/USP grades with stringent impurity limits.
How I use it: as a thin final seal after serums, applied under/around eyes, nasolabial area, and forehead lines. Caveats: avoid on areas with active acne; those with rosacea or heat-triggered inflammation may wish to skip petrolatum occlusion as it can trap heat.
The Hydration Experiment (teaser)
We compared HA-containing serums at varying percentages to a no-HA control, measuring relative skin hydration after application. We also tested a thin petrolatum seal over the control. One path trended toward surface dryness in our observations; the other produced a clear plumping/hydration effect.
Which won? I’ll share the full setup, measurements, and results — including instrumentation and timepoints — in the next post.
Editor’s Lab Note
A note from the OUMERE Laboratory
Our stance isn’t “anti-ingredient”; it’s “pro-biology.” HA is essential in the ECM. Our decision reflects how free HA can behave in formulas on real skin. OUMERE’s hydration model emphasizes endogenous production, inflammation control, and lipid-water balance, with occlusion used thoughtfully based on skin state.
Scientific disclaimer: Educational content for informed skincare decisions; not medical advice. Individual responses vary by skin state and environment. Patch test and consult a qualified professional for diagnosed conditions.