Why OUMERE Will Never Make a Vitamin C Serum: Biology Over Buzzwords

Updated October 11, 2025 — fact-checked, clarified, and expanded.

“When is OUMERE going to make a vitamin C serum?” My answer hasn’t changed: never.

I approach formulation as a cellular biologist, not as a marketer. Our mandate is simple: reduce inflammation, prevent unnecessary oxidative stress, and support the skin’s own regenerative systems. Topical vitamin C serums work against those goals more often than not.

1) Instability & the Antioxidant → Pro-oxidant Flip

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is highly reactive. In water and oxygen it oxidizes, which is why many serums turn yellow-brown in the bottle. Oxidized ascorbate doesn’t merely “lose potency” — in the presence of catalytic metals it can generate reactive oxygen species (ROS), functioning as a pro-oxidant.

On-skin consequences of pro-oxidant conditions may include: redness, irritation, congestion/breakouts, and gradual collagen/elastin degradation.

Recovery Protocol for Oxidatively Stressed Skin

1. Stop all vitamin C serums.
2. Give skin one week to settle.
3. Begin a calm, anti-inflammatory routine:

AM

• No. 9 (diluted) — gentle renewal; supports orderly collagen remodeling.
• UV-R — anti-inflammatory shield against incidental oxidative stress.
• Serum Bioluminelle — lipid balance + hydration to reinforce barrier architecture.

PM

• Oil Dissolution Theory — effective cleansing without stripping.
• UV-R and Serum Bioluminelle — replenish and calm overnight.

2) Metals & Common Ingredients Accelerate Oxidation

Redox-active metals are ubiquitous: tap water, airborne particulates, pigments, even trace contaminants in some stabilizers. When those meet ascorbate on skin, oxidation accelerates. Packaging tweaks slow this, they do not solve it at the point of use.

• Iron: drives ROS via classic Fenton pathways.
• Copper: readily catalyzes ascorbate oxidation in aqueous systems.
• Chelators/phosphates: can carry trace metals; they manage but don’t eliminate redox cycling.

3) The Collagen Claim — What Vitamin C Actually Does

Vitamin C is a cofactor for prolyl/lysyl hydroxylases in collagen processing - stabilizing fibers after collagen is synthesized. It does not directly upregulate collagen gene expression in skin.

Irritation from unstable/low-pH systems can provoke a repair response that favors more disorganized, scar-type collagen over elegant, youthful matrix. Skin can look thicker yet older.

4) Better, Biology-First Alternatives

Practical Routine That Actually Preserves Collagen

• Anti-inflammatory care daily to keep ROS low.
• Barrier lipids + water management to maintain structure.
• Gentle exfoliation to encourage organized remodeling, not chaos.

Related Reading

• How Vitamin C Serums Cause Acne in Healthy Skin — why congestion rises when redox balance collapses.
• The Scientific Papers Supporting Vitamin C Serum’s Skin Benefits Are Flawed — methods, endpoints, and what they missed.
• Why It Is Biologically Impossible for Vitamin C Serums to Increase Skin Collagen — cofactor ≠ signal.

References (selected)

1. Buettner GR, Jurkiewicz BA. Catalytic metals, ascorbate and free radicals: combinations to avoid. Radiation Research. 1996;145(5):532-541.
2. Puri P, Nandar SK, Kathuria S, Ramesh V. Effects of air pollution on the skin: a review. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2017;83(4):415.
3. Li W, Xu L, Liu X, et al. Air pollution–aerosol interactions produce more bioavailable iron. Science Advances. 2017;3(3):e1601749. doi:10.1126/sciadv.1601749
4. Chen C, Fan S, Li C, et al. Platinum nanoparticles inhibit antioxidant effects of vitamin C via ascorbate-oxidase-mimetic activity. J Mater Chem B. 2016;4(48):7895-7901.