Ask a Skin Care Biologist
Ask a Skin Care Biologist is a weekly Mask of Vanity feature where OUMERE’s CEO & CSO, Wendy Ouriel, M.S.—a cellular biologist specializing in cellular aging, extracellular matrix biology, and the biology of skin care—answers your questions.
Thank you for all of your questions. I’m excited to explore the science behind proper skin care together—and to bust a few myths along the way. Keep them coming!
Question: Can anything be done about large pores?
—Lori S.
First, the essential correction: pores don’t “open” or “close.” There’s no muscular apparatus attached to pores. The only muscle that influences the skin surface is the arrector pili (the goosebump muscle), which does not contract pores.
Steam, toners, and “pore-tightening” creams can’t actuate an opening/closing mechanism that doesn’t exist. Aggressively stretching or tugging at the skin to “tighten” pores only accelerates laxity.
What actually helps
- Create healthier new skin at the surface: Non-abrasive chemical exfoliation encourages orderly turnover and can refine the look of pores over time. See No. 9.
- Normalize sebum: Balanced hydration reduces compensatory oil output and helps calm hyper-keratinization—two drivers of visibly enlarged pores.
- Prevent impaction: Nightly cleansing to remove pollutants and excess oil, plus acidic, oil-based cleansing that preserves the barrier.
- Avoid pore-stretching cycles: Clogs distend follicles like a balloon; once stretched repeatedly, they appear larger even when empty. Choose non-comedogenic, fragrance-free formulas.
- Be wary of quick fixes: Ablative lasers may transiently smooth texture but don’t address sebum regulation, keratinization, or barrier health—so results tend to be temporary.
With consistent, barrier-respectful care, pores appear smaller and skin looks smoother—and the results last.
Question: Some “green beauty” brands say pure essential oils, in the right proportions, are safe and non-damaging—and that claims otherwise are fear-mongering. Thoughts?
—Lauren S.
From a cellular biology perspective, fragrance components from essential oils are non-nutritive and frequently sensitizing. They lack vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, and proteins—but are rich in small, volatile compounds (terpenes and related molecules) that readily penetrate the stratum corneum and can trigger inflammation, barrier disruption, and photosensitivity.
When I review studies used to promote essential oils, several issues recur:
- Model mismatch: In vitro results on neonatal fibroblasts or isolated foreskin cells don’t translate to intact adult facial skin.
- Confounded vehicles: Actives diluted in anti-inflammatory solvents (e.g., DMSO) obscure which ingredient produced the effect.
- Headline vs. data: Abstracts may imply antioxidant/anti-inflammatory effects, while full texts reveal benefits derived from other co-ingredients—or concentrations far below real-world use.
- Photosensitization risk: Several essential oils (notably citrus) increase UV reactivity, undermining long-term skin health goals.
Bottom line
Daily facial care should minimize inflammatory load. For most people, fragrance-free formulations outperform fragranced ones over time—with fewer reactions, stronger barrier function, and better tolerance for actives that matter.
For a deeper dive, see our Research Library pages: Sensitive Skin: The Cellular Response, Barrier Repair, and Research & Methods.
Suggested routine (evidence-informed, fragrance-free)
- AM: No. 9 → UV-R → Serum Bioluminelle → sunscreen of your choice.
- PM: Oil Dissolution Theory Cleanser → reapply serums as needed.
Explore the full routine: The OUMERE Routine.
Have a skin care question you’d like answered? Email blog@oumere.com.