Hyaluronic Acid & the “1000× Water” Myth: What Our Lab Tests Actually Found
You can spot certain identities because people tell you—vegans, marathoners, and anyone who bought Malibu in 1970. In skincare, hyaluronic acid (HA) “holding 1000× its weight in water” is that identity. We tested the claim across HA molecular weights. It failed under practical conditions.
Experimentally, HA did not approach 1000× water binding. In our runs, visible gelation began closer to ~50× and “dense gel” behavior nearer ~10× for HMW HA. There’s no standardized protocol for defining HA saturation—one reason a marketing number circulates without scrutiny. In real use, free HA can pull from the stratum corneum in low-humidity environments.
Background: What We’re Measuring (and Why It Matters)
HA is a glycosaminoglycan in the extracellular matrix (ECM). In tissue, it is bound and regulated, cushioning against compression and coordinating hydration. In a beaker—or in a cosmetic formula—free HA behaves as a powerful humectant that will draw water from the nearest reservoir, which may include your skin surface if ambient humidity is low or lipids are insufficient.
Materials
- HMW HA: 1.0–1.5 million Da
- LMW HA: 0.8–1.0 million Da
- Super-LMW: <50,000 Da
- Ultra-LMW: <6,000 Da (poor gelation)
- Distilled water
Method (Simple, Reproducible)
Test the Marketing Number
1 g HA into 1000 g water (1000×) for each MW class. Stand 48 hours. Observe viscosity; attempt to isolate any gel fraction by filtration.
Step Down
Repeat at 500×, 250×, 100×. Record first discernible thickening and cohesive gel formation.
Find Practical Saturation
Reduce to 50×, then 10× for HMW to identify dense, cohesive gel (hair-gel clumps) consistent with near-saturation.
Results (Qualitative, but Clear)
| Condition | Observation | Interpretation |
|---|---|---|
| 1000× (all MWs) | No discernible thickening after 48 h; no gel isolated | Does not bind anywhere near 1000× |
| 100× (HMW/LMW/S-LMW) | Mild thickening (HMW/LMW/S-LMW); none for U-LMW | Onset of gelation for higher MW |
| 50× (HMW) | Semi-thick gel; still loose | Approaching saturation, not cohesive |
| 10× (HMW) | Dense clumps; cohesive, hair-gel consistency | Practical near-saturation appearance |
| Low MW classes | Poor/irregular gel formation | Less efficient gelation vs. HMW |
Across runs, the defensible upper bound was ~50×—nowhere close to 1000×. More importantly, there is currently no accepted standard to quantify “fully saturated HA gel,” which complicates cross-study comparison.
Why This Matters for Skin
- No shortcut to ECM: Free HA in formulas doesn’t integrate into your ECM; it forms a surface film that competes for water.
- Rebound tightness risk: In dry air, strong humectants can pull from the stratum corneum if not paired with lipids/occlusion, leaving skin tighter or more reactive.
- Formulation reality: Even ~1% HA in water becomes a viscous gel, pushing toward sticky films over true, durable hydration.
Update: 2022 Follow-Up
Ultra-low MW HA failed to hold its own weight in water under the same conditions. Gelation collapsed at very small sizes—reinforcing that “1000×” is not just exaggerated; it’s implausible across classes.
Limitations & Reproducibility
- Qualitative endpoints (visual gelation). Future work: oscillatory rheology (G′/G″), cone-and-plate viscosity, Karl Fischer moisture on supernatant.
- Environmental controls: report RH/temperature; repeat at 30%, 50%, 70% RH to model skin-relevant humidity.
- MW distribution verification via SEC-MALS for each HA lot.
OUMERE’s Position & Practice
Make Your Own HA
No. 9 (PHA) supports orderly turnover; fresh keratinocytes naturally contribute ECM components, including HA.
Protect Native Stores
Serum Bioluminelle balances lipids and includes botanicals (e.g., horse chestnut extract) associated with HA preservation.
Respect Lipids & pH
See Oil Dissolution Theory to avoid humectant-driven dehydration cycles.
Note: All OUMERE products purchased after January 1, 2018 are hyaluronic-acid-free.
Editor’s Lab Note
Biological Principle: Hydrate by rebuilding and preserving the ECM, not by layering free humectants that compete for water. Our approach favors endogenous production, inflammation control, and lipid-water balance—with occlusion used thoughtfully by skin state and climate.
Further Reading & Research
References (selected): Burdick & Prestwich (2011) Adv Mater; Chen & Abatangelo (1999) Wound Repair Regen; Gandhi & Mancera (2008) Chem Biol Drug Des; Hay (2013) Cell Biology of Extracellular Matrix. Plus OUMERE lab observations reported herein.
Scientific disclaimer: Educational content for informed skincare decisions; not medical advice. Experimental conditions noted above; individual responses vary by skin state and environment.