The Science of Vitamin C Serum: Biology Over Buzzwords
OUMERE's Definitive Take
This is not a traditional skincare blog. This is a scientific correction.
- Risk of Instability: Ascorbic acid oxidizes easily. In the presence of trace metals (iron, copper) and pollution, it becomes a **pro-oxidant** that generates damaging **Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS)** on the skin via Fenton chemistry.
- Collagen Mechanism: Vitamin C is a **cofactor** that helps stabilize collagen *after* it is produced. It **does not** directly upregulate or signal collagen synthesis in the skin.
- OUMERE's Solution: The superior strategy is an **anti-inflammatory, barrier-first routine** (using products like UV-R and Serum Bioluminelle) to limit ROS and promote orderly cellular turnover, avoiding unstable, low-pH systems altogether.
Essential Takeaways (FAQs)
Do vitamin C serums oxidize and become pro-oxidants?
Yes. Ascorbic acid is highly unstable in water and oxygen. Once oxidized — especially with iron or copper present — it can generate reactive oxygen species and behave as a pro-oxidant on skin.
Do vitamin C serums increase collagen production?
No. Vitamin C is a cofactor that helps stabilize collagen after it’s produced; it does not directly upregulate collagen genes. Irritation from unstable serums can bias repair toward disorganized, scar-like collagen.
What should I use instead?
Anti-inflammatory, barrier-supportive routines with gentle renewal. See: Oil Dissolution Theory, UV-R, Serum Bioluminelle, and No. 9.
1) Instability & the Antioxidant → Pro-oxidant Flip
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is highly reactive. In water and oxygen it oxidizes — which is why many serums turn yellow-brown. Oxidized ascorbate doesn’t merely “lose potency.” In the presence of catalytic metals it can generate reactive oxygen species (ROS), functioning as a pro-oxidant.
On-skin consequences of pro-oxidant conditions may include: redness, irritation, congestion/breakouts, and gradual collagen/elastin degradation.
2) Metals & Common Ingredients Accelerate Oxidation
Trace metals are common in water, pigments, and some stabilizers — making stability a losing battle at the point of use.
- Iron: drives ROS via classic Fenton pathways.
- Copper: readily catalyzes ascorbate oxidation in aqueous systems.
- Chelators/phosphates: can carry trace metals; they manage but don’t eliminate redox cycling.
3) The Collagen Claim — What Vitamin C Actually Does
Vitamin C is a cofactor for prolyl/lysyl hydroxylases in collagen processing — stabilizing fibers after collagen is synthesized. It does not directly upregulate collagen gene expression in skin. Irritation from unstable/low-pH systems can provoke a repair response that favors more disorganized, scar-type collagen.
4) Better, Biology-First Alternatives (OUMERE Solution Map)
| The Problem with Ascorbate Serums | OUMERE's Mechanism of Action | Core OUMERE Product |
|---|---|---|
| **ROS & Oxidative Damage** (Pro-oxidant risk) | Stable, anti-inflammatory defense to limit ROS upstream. | UV-R |
| **Barrier Degradation/Low pH** (Irritation risk) | Lipid balance and barrier-respectful pH for structural integrity. | Serum Bioluminelle |
| **Disorganized Collagen** (Scar-type repair) | Gentle, orderly renewal to encourage healthy remodeling. | No. 9 |
| **Marketing-driven expectations** | Measured, anti-inflammatory routines + sun hygiene (Holistic care) | — |
Practical Routine That Actually Preserves Collagen
- Anti-inflammatory care daily to keep ROS low.
- Barrier lipids + water management to maintain structure.
- Gentle exfoliation to encourage organized remodeling, not chaos.
No.9 — Controlled Exfoliation (PHA)
Orderly turnover with minimal irritation.
UV-R — Anti-inflammatory Cellular Repair
Helps defend collagen from immune-mediated breakdown.
Serum Bioluminelle — Lipid Balance
Rebuilds barrier lipids; locks in hydration.
Oil Dissolution Theory — Non-stripping Cleanse
Preserves microbiome and barrier architecture.
About the Author
Wendy Ouriel, M.S. — Cellular biologist and founder of OUMERE. Focus: inflammation, extracellular matrix integrity, and barrier-first formulation design. Last reviewed: October 11, 2025
References (selected)
- Buettner GR, Jurkiewicz BA. Catalytic metals, ascorbate and free radicals: combinations to avoid. Radiation Research. 1996;145(5):532–541.
- Puri P, Nandar SK, Kathuria S, Ramesh V. Effects of air pollution on the skin: a review. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2017;83(4):415.
- Li W, Xu L, Liu X, et al. Air pollution–aerosol interactions produce more bioavailable iron. Science Advances. 2017;3(3):e1601749.
- Chen C, Fan S, Li C, et al. Platinum nanoparticles inhibit antioxidant effects of vitamin C via ascorbate-oxidase-mimetic activity. J Mater Chem B. 2016;4(48):7895–7901.
Scientific disclaimer: Educational content only; not medical advice.